
Buon Ferragosto a tutti! — Happy Ferragosto, everyone!
August 15 is Ferragosto, a public holiday here in Italy and the most eagerly anticipated day in the country’s summer calendar. Italians celebrate Ferragosto by downing tools, taking the day off, and heading for the coast or the cool air mountain air (if indeed they're not already there).
But what is Ferragosto? Where does the tradition come from? And should you time your trip to coincide with this summer public holiday?
The term Ferragosto comes from the Latin term Feriae Augusti (“Augustus' Holidays”), as the celebration was established by the emperor Augustus in 18 BC. Augustus introduced Ferragosto for two reasons: firstly to make himself look great (who doesn’t like being given an extra public holiday) and secondly to give the empire’s workers a well-deserved day off after months of toiling in the fields.
In the morning, clients would pass by their patrons’ houses to greet them—collecting a small tip for their troubles—before attending one of the many horse races held across the Roman Empire (a remnant of which survives in the form of Siena’s bi-annual Palio).
Chariot Racing depicted on a Roman Mosaic discovered in Spain
While the empire’s horses didn’t enjoy the day off, its other beasts of burden did.
Oxen, donkeys and mules were temporarily relieved from carrying heavy things and decorated with flowers and garlands—usually a sign of their imminent sacrifice, but on this occasion a welcome addition.
Ferragosto was not traditionally held on August 15th but on August 1st (the first day of the month that Augustus himself introduced). It was the Catholic Church that pushed the event back in the calendar so that it coincided with the Assumption of Mary.
Assumption Day is now a public holiday in dozens of countries with strong roots in Catholic or Orthodox traditions. Some of these you would expect, like Austria, Chile, France, Greece and Poland, while some are more surprising, such as Senegal, Syria and Togo.
While the Feast of the Assumption was introduced in the 5th century by Bishop Cyril of Alexandria, it was not until the 6th century that the tradition was adopted by the Eastern Church and recognised by the Western Church as a Holy Day of Obligation.
Benito Mussolini's Fascist regime popularised the tradition of travelling during Ferragosto, implementing the idea through corporate associazioni dopolavoristiche ('After-Work Associations', which controlled the after-work activities of Italy's workforce).
From 1925 onwards, the regime organised hundreds of trips to Italy's major cities as well as its coastlines and mountains, facilitating travel for Italy's working classes through heavily discounted train fares. Valid on the 13th, 14th and 15th of August, the offer consisted of two options: one-day travel within a radius of 100km or three-day travel within a radius of 200km.
The ‘Popular Trains’ of Ferragosto
Mussolini at Riccione for Ferragosto (1930)
In terms of kickstarting domestic Italian tourism, the initiative was a roaring success.
Many Italian families were able to visit the artistic cities of Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples for the first time while landlocked families were able to visit the coast; and families living on the coast were able to venture into the mountains.
Today's Italians might not labour the fields as much as their ancient ancestors did (and it may or may not be a coincidence that we enjoy fewer public holidays than our forebears did in the first century CE). But we still celebrate the millennia-old tradition, albeit in a way that more closely resembles Mussolini's Italy than Augustus' Rome.
Ferragosto no longer refers to August 15th but serves as a metonym for the summer period surrounding it, whether that be a long weekend or most of the month. Travel still plays a major part in Italians' plans, and you'll usually find Italy's major cities close to deserted around Ferragosto.
Instead, Italians typically shut up shop and spend the day outdoors, going on long walks, retreating to beaches or mountains, firing up barbecues, and chilling with friends or family.
Not a bad way to spend a midsummer's long weekend with so much stunning coastline around!
That really depends on what you're looking for from your trip.
If you want cities like Rome and Florence to yourself, practically emptied of locals but still with a fair few tourists, Ferragosto is a great time of year to visit.
But be warned: because so many businesses close around the time of Ferragosto (and throughout August in general), you'll want to double check museums, galleries and restaurants are open before you visit to avoid disappointment.
The good news is that we're still open throughout the month of August!
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