What to Do in Trastevere: A Local's Guide

Historic medieval district of Trastevere in Rome showcasing traditional cobblestone streets and ancient architecture during Carpe Diem Tours Rome neighborhood exploration
Customers are eating pasta on Rome Food Tour
Award-Winning

Rome Food Tour through Trastevere

Clock icon4.96(3203)
from79 €

Situated across the river from Rome's historic centre, Trastevere was once the city's working-class artisan district — a warren of narrow streets and cloistered piazzas that was home to Rome's tradesmen, fishermen, and foreign communities from the east of the Roman Empire. Fast-forward 2,000 years and while its professional and ethnic makeup has changed, its bohemian character has not.

Like the Jewish Ghetto on the other side of the River Tiber, Trastevere is one of the few neighbourhoods that still feels authentically Roman. During the day, Trastevere seems pretty sleepy, its pedestrianised cobbled streets isolated from the constant cacophony of Roman traffic. This makes Trastevere the perfect place to wander among the smartly dressed locals, duck into cafes or churches, and grab a bite to eat at its many street food eateries.

It's at night that Trastevere really comes to life.

Trastevere's streets swell with young Roman partygoers and in-the-know Erasmus students, with the occasional lost-looking tourist thrown in for good measure. Bar San Calisto draws in crowds of hundreds with its cheap drinks and young, beautiful clientele, while Piazza Trilussa transforms into a sea of plastic cup-carrying twenty-somethings, dressed to impress and bearing accidental audience to impromptu open-mics on the piazza (invariably varying upon a theme of Oasis' Wonderwall or Ed Sheeran's Perfect).

Whether you want to discover Trastevere's cultural and culinary offerings by day or join in the revelry after dark, this Trastevere Guide is for you.

This guide was written by Alexander Meddings, a travel writer based in Rome. All of our articles are authored by local writers who know their cities inside out & provide commission-free recommendations.

How to Get to Trastevere

Trastevere isn't on the metro line, so the best way to get here is by foot, bus or tram.

It takes around 30 minutes to walk from the Colosseum to Trastevere via the Circus Maximus or Largo Argentina, and around 20 minutes to walk to Trastevere from the Vatican. The nicest route takes you from Campo de' Fiori across Ponte Sisto Bridge and into the heart of Trastevere via Piazza Trilussa.

To get to Trastevere by bus, take the N8 or H Line which connects Termini to Trastevere via Piazza Venezia, or the 8BUS which runs from Piazza Venezia to Gianicolense. You can also catch the N3 night bus which runs from 0:15 to 4:45 and operates a circular route around the edge of the city centre.

You can also reach Trastevere by tram from Piazza Venezia (n8) or from the city centre (n3), although the latter can take up to 35 minutes from the Colosseum.

Check out our Essential Guide for Getting Around Rome

What to Do in Trastevere

Start around Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere is at the heart of Trastevere and is surrounded by bars and restaurants where you can eat, drink, and people-watch. In the evenings, street entertainers set up in the square to perform for passing crowds and locals meet up at the central fountain before moving onto nearby bars.

On one side of the square is the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, whose archaeological remains date back to the 330s CE. but tradition tells that it was built shortly after the martyrdom of Pope Callixtus in the 220s on the site of a military hospital. It is certainly one of the oldest churches in Rome and is where the first public mass was openly celebrated.

Historic Basilica Santa Maria in Trastevere church facade and piazza showcasing medieval Roman architecture during Carpe Diem Tours Rome religious heritage experience

Basilica Santa Maria in Trastevere

When you visit, take note of the marble plaques in the entrance, these are the gravestones of early Christians buried in the area. Inside the church, you'll find ancient columns taken from the Baths of Caracalla and installed in the 4th century CE. The church's marble flooring was also plundered from Rome's pagan palaces to build the city's first churches. 

By the sacristy is a curious little shrine called the fons olei. It recalls a legend from Roman times that one night in 38 BCE, a fountain of oil sprang up from the ground and ran like a stream into the River Tiber for one whole day and night. Some legends say this foretold the coming of Christ.

Lose Yourself among Trastevere's Cobbled Streets

One of our favourite things to do in Rome is to lose ourselves among Trastevere's streets on an Italian passeggiata (leisurely stroll), occasionally ducking into its cosy restaurants, cute bars, and enticing gelaterias. As you venture further into the enchanting labyrinth of medieval buildings and cobblestones, it's hard not to imagine yourself living the idyllic lifestyle of La Dolce Vita in Trastevere.

Learn all about Medieval Medicine

Another curiosity, not far from the church is an old pharmacy dating back to the 1600s: Antica Farmacia Santa Maria della Scala. Historically, this was the Pope’s pharmacy and the Carmelite monks based here prepared poultices and medicines here. You can go in just to take a look (it is still a functioning Pharmacy) or take a short tour of the ‘spezeria’ or ‘spice shop’ led by the Carmelite monks who explain apothecary through the ages and the history of the building.

The monks are still based here and continue to produce creams and homoeopathic remedies.

Antica-Farmarcia-Santa-Maria-della-Scala

Antica Farmarcia Santa Maria della Scala

See the Sensual Frescoes of Raphae at Villa Farnesina

Trastevere also boasts the beautiful Villa Farnesina, which is considered the ultimate in Renaissance art and architecture. It is best known for its erotic frescoes painted by Raphael for the Pope’s banker Agostino Chigi. Often overlooked by tourists, this small villa is an absolute gem, set in beautiful gardens beside the River Tiber. Here you can marvel at the frescoed rooms and the loggia of Cupid and Psyche by Raphael. The villa has hosted many famous visitors to Rome throughout its history, including Queen Christina of Sweden who renounced her throne and moved to Rome in the 1600s.

Entry tickets for Villa Farnesina cost €15 and can be purchased on the door or from the official site.

Climb the Janiculum Hill for a Stunning View of Rome 

Between the low-lying streets of Trastevere and the Vatican is the Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo in Italian). Often called the eighth hill of Rome, it was not part of the ancient city. It is one of the highest hills in Rome and the view from the top of the hill is breathtaking. It is a great place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and has several interesting things to see.

The opening scene of La Grande Bellezza (the Great Beauty) was filmed on Trastevere’s Janiculum Hill

Historically, the Janicolo Hill played an important role in the defense of the city against French troops in 1849 led by General Giuseppe Garibaldi (better known as a fruity biscuit in England). A grand bronze statue of him on a horse crowns the hill and numerous sculptures remembering the fallen heroes are dotted around the winding paths. The Italian army to this day commemorates the battle for the Republic by firing a canon every day at noon.

Pass by the Janiculum Fountain

If climbing the Janiculum Hill, make sure to pass by the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola, an imposing fountain built in the 1600s to celebrate the repair of an ancient aqueduct bringing water back to the Trastevere.

The church of San Pietro in Montorio houses the tomb of Beatrice Cenci (one of the most famous Ghosts in Rome). Attached is the Tempietto del Bramante, a treat for architecture fans. There is even a beautiful lighthouse (the Manfredi Lighthouse) given to the city in 1911 by Italians who migrated to Argentina. 

Scare yourself silly on a Ghost Tour of Rome!

Sip a Spritz at Bar San Calisto

Just around the corner from Piazza Sant Maria in Trastevere is the historic no-frills bar of San Calisto. There's nothing fancy about this place, but it's one of the cheapest bars in town (a large Peroni costs €2.50 and a long drink around €4), and its long-standing staff and colourful clientele make it well worth a visit.

42

Clients enjoying authentic Italian gelato from Bar Calisto on our Food Tour of Rome

San Calisto has been serving students, locals, and tourists for 50 years and is the heart of Trastevere. In days gone by, it was a communist haunt (which perhaps explains the low prices still today). 

Check out Piazza Trilussa at Night

Trastevere is where the Romans like to come on a Saturday evening or Sunday afternoon for an aperitivo. They gather in the two most vibrant piazzas: Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and Piazza Trilussa.

Piazza Trilussa is named after a famous 19th century poet who wrote bawdy poetry in the Roman dialect. You can reach it from near Campo dei Fiori via the Ponte Sisto. Built by Pope Sixtus IV, who also built the Sistine Chapel, this delightful bridge was the first to reconnect the two sides of the city.

The piazza is on the side of the river and has an ornate fountain and grand steps that are usually buzzing with locals and tourists. This is where the teenagers gather to meet up on a Saturday night, drinking beers and chatting for hours and of course checking each other out!

Live Rome's nightlife like a local on our Rome Tipsy Tour!

Where to Eat in Trastevere

Trastevere is one of the best neighbourhoods in Rome for good, honest food from traditional trattorias. You'll find plenty of places to go for aperitivo beforehand, from Bar San Calisto for something cheap, cheerful, and usually pretty crowded to Freni e Frizioni for something a little more chic and classy.

But as with all areas of Rome, there are a few tourist traps in Trastevere. Here are our favourite restaurants, pizzerias, and trattorias for guaranteed good eating.

Eat like a local on our Rome Trastevere Food Tour

Ristorante Popi Popi

Address: Via delle Fratte di Trastevere 45, 00153

The entertainingly named Popi Popi is a great place for first-time visitors to Rome. It boasts a vast menu of reasonably priced pastas (primi), mains (secondi) and pizzas and plenty of indoor and outdoor seating. You can normally turn up and get a table pretty quickly, though booking in advance is always advisable.

Open: Monday - Thursday 6 pm - 12 am; Saturday - Sunday 12:30 pm - 12 am

La Gattabuia

Address: Via del Porto 1, 00153

Tucked away off the beaten path, La Gattabuia is a lovely small restaurant with an old-worldy feel and a loyal local clientele. It specializes in the big four Roman pasta dishes (carbonara, amatriciana, gricia and cacio e pepe), traditional main courses, and grilled meat platters. Its pizzas are good too, although it's the meaty mains you'll want to prioritize.

La Gattabuia counts among its illustrious guests Dustin Hoffman and esteemed Italian food critic Alessandro Borghese. Make sure to reserve a table in advance as space is at a premium.

Open: Monday - Thursday 7:30 - 11:30 pm; Saturday - Sunday: 1 -3 pm, 7:30 - 11:30 pm

Spirito Di Vino

Address: Via dei Genovesi 31A

Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Trastevere's centre, Il Spirito Di Vino (open Monday -Saturday 6 pm - 11 pm) is a must-visit for food and history lovers. Its wine cellar incorporates the remains of Rome's oldest synagogue, which predates the Colosseum, while the kitchen above recreates traditional Roman recipes which date back to the time of Julius Caesar.

It was in the restaurant's wine cellar that the famous Apoxyomenos sculpture was discovered, a Roman copy of a Greek original by Lysippus, which was brought to Rome in the second century BC following Rome's conquest of Greece and Macedonia.

Apoxyomenos
Ristorante-Spirito-di-Vino

Apoxyomenos statue, now in the Vatican Museums

Il Spirito Di Vino’s wine cellar

Its owners, the Catalani family, are both eccentric and exceptional. Head chef Eliana Catalani started her career as a virologist who worked alongside the Nobel Prize winner Rita Levi Montalcini before transferring her scientific knowledge to the kitchen to recreate traditional Roman recipes

She is joined by her husband Romeo, whose description of the daily menu straddles the boundaries of performative art, and her son Francesco, whose amicability and love of conversation (especially on the English Premier League) make for an unforgettable experience.

Check out our full list of where to eat in Trastevere

Eat Like a Local on our Trastevere Food Tour!

Why risk wasting your time and money eating poorly when you could leave it to the experts! Join our Trastevere Food Tour and we will guide you through an Italian menu and share the best of Roman cuisine. What makes our Trastevere Food Tour so unique is our rapport with traditional family-owned establishments passed down for generations.

Person enjoying a food sample on a Trastevere food tour in Rome.
Cover image for Trastevere Rome food tour featuring tourists enjoying authentic Italian cuisine and wine during Carpe Diem Tours culinary experience

You won’t just be eating the food; you will meet the chefs and learn their stories. Need more convincing? Here's what people are saying about our Rome Food Tour.

Book your Trastevere Food Tour Today

Media
Alexander Meddings
Check iconVerified Writer
Alexander Meddings is a professional copywriter and postgraduate in Roman history from the University of Oxford. After graduating with his MPhil, he moved to Florence and then Rome to carry out his research on the ground and pursue his passion at the source. He now works in travel, as a writer and content consultant, and in education as a university lecturer and translator.
Get in Touch!
Enjoy the latest offers, insider tips and all things Carpe Diem!
Download the app