The Temple of Hadrian & the Emperor Behind It

Temple-of-Hadrian
Happy group of tourists taking selfie photo during Carpe Diem Tours Rome walking tour experience
Likely to sell out

Christian Rome Walking Tour

Clock icon5(202)
from200 €

One of the most striking scenes that greets people as they wind their way through the narrow streets of Rome’s historic centre is the sudden emergence of a pockmarked ancient temple, which occupies one whole side of the area’s few open squares.

This is the Temple of Hadrian, or the Hadrianum as academic folk call it. And as well as being one of Rome’s best-preserved examples of an imperial-era temple, it has quite the story.  

Temple-of-Hadrian (2)

Tom Ripley reads the paper while drinking coffee outside the Temple of Hadrian. Image credit: Netflix

Who Was Hadrian?

Hadrian — or Publius Aelius Hadrianus Augustus if we go by his full title — was a Roman emperor who ruled between 117 and 138. He was the third emperor of the Nerva-Antonine dynasty, which is best known for blessing Rome with the famous Five Good Emperors who offered a peaceful period of reprieve following the catastrophic rule of Domitian and before the batshit crazy reign of Commodus. 

1086px-Marble_Busts_of_Hadrian__Antinous_from_Rome_Roman_Empire_British_Museum_16517587460-1

Bust of the emperor Hadrian (left) and his lover, Antinous from the British Museum.

Bust of the emperor Hadrian (left) and his lover, Antinous from the British Museum.

Hadrian may have been a Roman emperor, but he was not born in Rome, or even Italy. He was likely born in Italica, present-day Santiponce, in the province of Seville, Spain, and became emperor following the death of his uncle Trajan, another Spanish-born emperor and the progenitor of a pretty gnarly column near the Roman Forum. 

A “Good” Emperor

There are several reasons why Hadrian is considered a “good” emperor. For a start, his reign was marked by a period of peace and prosperity, with little military activity (at least anywhere near Rome) and plenty of administrative reform. He focused more on reinforcing the frontiers of the Roman Empire than on conquering new lands, and more on streamlining the administrative abilities of the imperial court than on pandering to the traditional decision-makers in the Senate.

By and large, Hadrian did pursue a policy of peace. Unless you were a rival claimant to the throne at the time of his accession, in which case you could expect a swift and brutal execution, or unless you were unfortunate enough to live in Roman Judea (modern-day Palestine), which he brutally subjugated following a failed revolt against Roman rule.

The Restless Traveller

Hadrian travelled extensively throughout the Roman Empire, visiting every Roman province, including Britannia, Hispania, Greece and Syria. The emperor spent 10 years, more than half of his reign, travelling around his empire. Even at the time, this was considered exceptional, with ancient writers praising Hadrian for having “circled the whole world” (orbem romanum circumit). 

Hadrian the Builder

If we learned anything about Hadrian from school it’s that he built a great big wall along the ancient Roman border of England and Scotland. Stretches of Hadrian’s Wall survive, serving as stops on coast-to-coast hiking routes across Northern England.

In pop culture, Hadrian’s Wall inspired George R.R. Martin’s wildling-repelling structure which keeps the wildlings out and where the Night’s Watch live out their oath.

In Rome, Hadrian was also responsible for the construction of some of the most iconic landmarks still standing to this day. This includes Castel Sant’Angelo (his dynastic tomb), the Temple of Venus and Roma, the bridges across the River Tiber, and the reconstruction of the Pantheon. In France, his most lasting legacy is the Arena of Nîmes. 

Visit Castel Sant'Angelo, the Pantheon and Hadrian's Temple on our Vatican Walking Tour!

A Cosmopolitan Conservative

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of Hadrian’s character was how he rectified his deep-set love for Greek culture (known in academic circles by the fancy word philhellenism) with a traditional, even excessive, Roman conservatism. 

On the one hand, he passionately promoted Greek literature and oratory, attending lectures by the philosopher Epictetus, practising his speaking skills in a purpose-built oratorium recently discovered beneath Rome’s Piazza Venezia, and composing plenty of poetry of his own in both Latin and Greek. He indulged quite openly in homosexual relationships, most famously with the young and dashing Antinous, and grew a beard in line with Greek male fashion trends.

On the other hand, he went further than most of his predecessors in reinforcing traditional Roman values. Hadrian enforced dress standards among Rome’s wealthy classes, obliging senators and knights to wear toga when in public. He imposed strict separation between the sexes in theatres and public baths (something previously blurred), and prevented baths from opening until 2 pm to discourage idleness.

Hadrian was also prone to extremely violent outbursts. One source states that he had his chief architect Apollodorus of Damascus banished and then executed because he was too blunt in his criticism of Hadrian’s architectural knowledge (though many scholars doubt the truth behind this claim). What we know for sure is that he purged a fair few senators and officials upon his ascent to the throne, including Lucius Quietus, a former commander under Trajan, and Avidius Nigrinus, a respected senator.

All of this meant that by the time of his death in 138 CE, public opinion on him was split. The Senate quietly rejoiced. Mostly because it meant the end of civil reforms that had stripped them of their own power; partly because his successor would be free from Hadrian’s philandering Greek tendencies. But many of Rome’s people and newly created bourgeois class saw him as a great civil servant whose reign had been the most peaceful and prosperous in generations.

What Is the Temple of Hadrian?

The Temple of Hadrian was a monumental place of worship which the emperor Antoninus Pius dedicated to his predecessor and adoptive father, Hadrian, in 145 CE, eight years after Hadrian’s death. It was built in Rome’s Campus Martius (Field of Mars), once a vast open plain where the military would train (hence why it was named after the god of war). 

IMG_0330-1

Group outside the Temple of Hadrian on our Vatican Walking Tour

From the imperial period onwards, the Campus Martius evolved into an expansive architectural theme park, packed full of temples, public baths, stadiums and columns. Hadrian’s Temple was located not far from the Pantheon and occupied the space between the still-standing Column of Marcus Aurelius and the Alexandrine Baths. 

At the time of its construction, the Temple of Hadrian was one of the largest temples in Rome. But not only was it enormous. It was extravagant too. Like all imperial architectural projects, Hadrian’s Temple was garishly colourful: its exterior was covered in marble, the pedestals of its columns were adorned with reliefs representing the many provinces of the Roman Empire, and its intercolumniation was decorated with framed panels, trophies, and weapons to symbolise Rome’s many military victories.

Now for the geeky, architectural part. Hadrian’s temple was peripteral, consisting of a single row of marble Corinthian columns running on each side. Thirteen of these columns ran across the long side of the temple complex while eight ran across the short. Beneath the columns on the remaining peristyle was space for 36 reliefs. By no coincidence, 36 was the exact number of provinces under Hadrian’s control at the time of his death in 138 AD. 

Colonna_-_Tempio_di_Adriano_ricostruzione_1000165_

Reconstruction of Hadrian's Temple, as exhibited inside the museum. Photo from Wikimedia.

We tend to think of buildings from the ancient world as being white. In fact, most monumental buildings were wildly colourful. Turkish grey-and-white Proconnesian marble was used to build the temple while limestone and giallo antico marble (a yellow marble from Tunisia) were also used for the columns

You might think that it was awfully generous of Antoninus Pius to dedicate a temple to his late predecessor and adoptive father, and indeed it was. But there was more logic behind the decision than just splurging imperial expenditure on a fancy-looking temple. To enter the Temple of Hadrian, worshippers had to pass beneath an arch Antoninus Pius erected for his heirs designate, Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus (whom you might recognise from the Gladiator film franchise) before ascending a 4-m high staircase leading up to the portico from the main façade.

What Antoninus Pius was doing was essentially building himself into history, building a bridge between other good emperors while beautifying the city in the process. 

What Remains of Hadrian’s Temple?

The northeastern side of the temple is almost perfectly preserved and has been subsumed within the Palazzo della Borsa (a seventeenth-century building now housing Rome’s Chamber of Commerce) on the southern flank of Piazza di Pietra. 

Tempio_di_Adriano_-_esterno_

What remains of the Temple of Hadrian, as seen from Piazza di Pietra

Eleven of the 13 original Proconnesian marble Corinthian columns still stand, measuring 15 metres in height and 1.44 metres in diameter. The cella wall survives too, facing out onto the piazza, pockmarked with the grooves that once held the temple’s marble coating.

Standing at the railings and looking down, you’ll see the ancient street level of the temple precinct. Look up and you can see the cornice, architrave, and design on the frieze running across the top of the structure. These have been restored several times (and not very skilfully since they appear in three parts). 

What Happened to the Temple of Hadrian?

Like many other ancient buildings in Campus Martius, the temple gradually fell into a state of ruin, its building material gradually picked away at, broken away and repurposed. In 1695, what remained was incorporated into a papal palace. The facade of the temple was retained including 11 Corinthian columns that comprised the original external colonnade. 

In 1831, the building became the home of the Rome Stock Exchange and is now occupied by the local Chamber of Commerce. Some parts of the cella are still visible inside the modern building, which houses a modest museum dedicated to Hadrian and an exhibition hall. 

Can you go inside the Temple of Hadrian?

Not really. Very little of Hadrian’s Temple survives except for its long façade. You can, however, go inside the nineteenth-century palazzo that was built into the remains of the temple, once home to Rome’s Stock Exchange and still the seat of Rome’s Chamber of Commerce.

Is Hadrian Buried Inside?

No. Hadrian was buried in his dynastic mausoleum, which was later converted into the fortress we know as Castel Sant’Angelo, on the banks of the River Tiber.

Castel-Sant-Angelo-from-Ponte-Sant-Angelo-

Castel Sant'Angelo from Ponte Sant'Angelo

The Temple of Hadrian was intended purely for the worship of his genius, a common practice in ancient Rome whereby ‘good’ emperors were deified, given their own priesthood and worshipped as gods. 

Media
Alexander Meddings
Check iconVerified Writer
Alexander Meddings is a professional copywriter and postgraduate in Roman history from the University of Oxford. After graduating with his MPhil, he moved to Florence and then Rome to carry out his research on the ground and pursue his passion at the source. He now works in travel, as a writer and content consultant, and in education as a university lecturer and translator.
Get in Touch!
Enjoy the latest offers, insider tips and all things Carpe Diem!
Download the app