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Flexible TravelChristmas is our favourite time of the year in Rome.
The usually bustling capital is calmer and less crowded than during the hectic summer months while the myriad of Christmas lights that illuminate the city’s cobbled streets add a special romantic sheen to the already stunning centre. Best of all, Rome’s winter climate is characterised by clear, sunny days and chilly, but never freezing nights (more on this later), making this the perfect time to visit.
We've written this guide to share all our insider knowledge for spending Christmas 2023 in Rome. If you're looking for inspiration for the best things to do around Christmas this year, click on the link in the contents and it’ll take you straight there. If you want to learn all about Rome’s Christmas traditions and how you should plan your visit then just keep reading!
As Roman paganism predated Christianity by some 700 years, the ancient Romans didn’t celebrate Christmas but the Saturnalia - a seven-day festival held in honour of Saturn, the god of time, abundance, and renewal.
Starting on December 17th, the Romans would invert their social conventions in imitation of the Golden Age that preceded Saturn’s mythical deposition. Masters would host banquets for their slaves, carnivalic celebrations would fill the streets, and the Romans would exchange small gifts – a tradition that has since infused today’s Christmas traditions.
The poet Catullus, who came up with the saying Carpe Diem, once called the Saturnalia optimo dierum – “the best of days.” It’s fair to say that Christmas in Rome still fits the bill.
Saturnalia by Antoine Callet (1783)
Etching representing the Saturnalia
While the tradition of gift-giving thrives in Rome as around the world, you won’t find many other remnants of the pagan Saturnalia in Rome's streets or homes. Instead, today’s Italian capital assumes pride of place at the global table of Christian Christmas celebrations. This is in no small part because of the presence of the Vatican City—the centre of Christianity—which becomes a focal point of festivities between the Day of the Immaculate Conception on December 8th and the Epiphany on January 6th.
Today's Italian Christmas traditions are very similar to ours, with a few exceptions.
Instead of Santa Claus delivering gifts on Christmas Eve, it is La Befana, an ugly benevolent witch, who brings good children gifts and bad children coal on January 6th. (In reality, Italians have adapted to Anglo-American traditions, opening their gifts on Christmas Eve).
Food plays an unsurprisingly crucial role in Italian Christmas traditions. Panettone and pandoro are given and gorged upon in considerable quantity from early December onwards while December 24th is seafood-centered in honour of the Feast of the Seven Fishes.
Christmas is by far the best time of year to visit the attractions that are so busy during summer. Our small-group Colosseum tours and Vatican tours are smaller still in the low season, and the lack of crowds and extra attention you get from your guide makes the experience even more worthwhile.
But there are plenty of other ways to take advantage of the lack of crowds and mild weather. Here are our top recommendations.
Winter is the best time to journey down Rome’s oldest road, the Via Appia Antica. Built in the late 4th century BC, the Via Appia runs southeast from near the Circus Maximus to the southern city of Brindisi (though you couldn't make it this far, even if you wanted to, as many parts remain buried underground).
Cycling the Via Appia in December
Goats on the Via Appia during Winter
There’s plenty to see as the Appian Way is lined with tombs, catacombs, and sprawling imperial villas. Set off early to make sure you’re not out after dark; this 2,000-year-old road isn’t very well illuminated!
The Capitoline Museums is hosting Fidia, their first monographic exhibition based on the works of the Classical Era's greatest sculptor. This fascinating exhibition documents the life and times of the creator of world wonders and famous monuments, including the Parthenon, the mythical chryselephantine colossi of Athena Parthenos (that long word just means it was covered with gold and ivory), and the colossi of Zeus.
Fidia at the Capitoline Museums
A legendary figure, Fidia's life is shrouded in mystery. We know nothing about many details of his life through a vast and valuable selection of more than 100 works - including archaeological finds, Greek originals and Roman replicas, paintings, manuscripts, and drawings, some exhibited for the first time. A creative genius who still inspires contemporaries - Fidia is not to be missed.
Seeing the sorry state of Rome’s Norwegian Spruce in 2017, you’d have been forgiven for thinking Italy and Norway were at war. So traumatised and depilated did it look that locals bestowed on it the nickname Lo Spelacchio (the bald one), much to the embarrassment of the authorities.
‘Spelacchio’ Christmas Tree in 2017. Photo credit: Panorama
The tradition has stuck, however, and now every Christmas Tree that has graced the central roundabout of Piazza Venezia since 2017 is called Lo Spelacchio—no matter how flourishing its foliage.
This year's tree is infinitely more Instagram friendly so get down to Piazza Venezia after sunset to snap some shots against its lights!
You can find nativity scenes (presepi, as they’re called in Italian) all around Rome at Christmas. Every church has its own, with the most charming and intricate exhibited within the Basilica of Saints Cosma and Damiano just behind the Roman Forum. But the most famous nativity scene is the life-size artwork in Saint Peter’s Square.
Though the size and dimensions of the nativity vary year on year, the Vatican’s nativity scene and Christmas Tree are always the most tasteful and majestic in Rome. This year's nativity will evoke the first living nativity, created by St Francis in a cave in Greccio, north of Rome, in 1223. It's the nativity's 800th anniversary!
Take the know-how of Italian cooking home with you by taking part in a hands-on cooking class! Perfect the art of authentic pasta and tiramisù or try something different, blending heady cocktails and hand-rolled pasta on a Christmas Spritz & Spaghetti cooking class!
Pasta & Tiramisu Class
Christmas Spritz & Spaghetti Class
While Rome’s historic city hosts several low-key Christmas markets, the best ones (and the only ones really worth visiting) are situated on the peripheries: in the north, at Villa Borghese and Piazza della Vittoria, and in the south at Cinecittà.
From December 3rd until January 8th, Villa Borghese's riding track will host Christmas World. Among its attractions, visitors will be able to skate on the ice rink, meet Santa in his grotto, go shopping at the toy factory and enjoy plenty of tasty treats at the food stalls!
Known as Midnight Mass or Natale del Signore, Christmas Eve Mass is one of the most important events in the Vatican’s liturgical calendar. The Mass is celebrated in Saint Peter’s Basilica, partly because of its ceremonial significance and partly because of its capacity to accommodate more than 60,000 people.
Pope Francis leads the Christmas Eve mass in Saint Peter’s Basilica at the Vatican, December 24, 2018. REUTERS/Max Rossi
The Nativity Scene in St Peter’s Square
You must reserve tickets in advance to attend Christmas Eve Mass or any other papal audience event. Tickets are free, but to obtain them you have to fill out this form and fax it to the Vatican (+39 06 698 85863) at least two months in advance.
After faxing this form, you can expect to receive a letter from the Church stating that they have received your request, but this is not a confirmation letter. To get this, you must go to the Prefettura Office 4 to 5 days before the mass to collect your tickets.
The service starts at 6:30 p.m. on Saturday 24th December. If you cannot attend in person, you can always stream the service via the Vatican’s YouTube channel.
Christmas Eve is when Italians really celebrate Christmas. Many of Rome's museums and galleries close or operate reduced opening hours, public transport operates less regularly (especially in the evening), and most restaurants close.
Many of our tours run as usual on Christmas Eve, and with the city practically empty this can be one of the best days to explore Rome and snap your shots of its usually crowded attractions. But the one thing you must do on Christmas Eve is eat, and eat well.
You must book in advance to guarantee your table for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Most restaurants close during this period and an increasing number of families trade in the stress of cooking at home for the convenience of eating out together.
Italians generally abstain from eating meat on Christmas Eve and feast on fish instead. As a general rule, the further south you go, and the closer to the coast you are, the more abundant the portions of seafood—culminating in the Sicilian Christmas dinner which could comfortably feed the five-thousand.
Here are our top recommendations for where to eat Christmas dinner in Rome:
Most businesses close on Christmas Day so people can spend the day with their family. The Vatican is closed on December 25th and 26th and on January 1st while the Colosseum is closed on December 25th and January 1st. Be aware that the Colosseum operates reduced opening hours during winter (9:00 am - 4:30 pm with last entrance at 3:30).
As with the dinner on the 24th, most restaurants serve a menu alla carta instead of dishes on selection. Having said that, if you get a chance then when in Rome, do as the Romans do and try abbacchio al forno con patate (lamb done in the oven with potatoes). It's a salty affair: traditionally, the lamb is braised in garlic, balsamic vinegar, and anchovies, creating a taste that’s a far cry from our classic mint sauce combo. But for the carnivores among you, it is absolutely delicious.
Rome’s climate is Mediterranean, which means cold, but never freezing winters. Average temperatures hover between 7-10°C (45-50°F) with six hours of sunshine per day and sunsets between 4:30 and 5:00 pm.
Rain is the only slight inconvenience during Italian winters. Average rainfall is 111mm spread across the month so you’ll want to pack something waterproof or buy an umbrella while here. But on the whole this is the most temperate time of year to explore the city, as it’s not too hot and never really too cold.
View from the Janiculum Hill in December
Snowfall is rare but not unheard of, and seeing the Eternal City wrapped in a blanket of snow is really a sight to behold. When visiting Rome at Christmas, pack warm, waterproof clothes and sturdy, waterproof shoes that offer grip on Rome’s cobbles.
Carpe Diem Rome specialises in fun, immersive, informative tours of the Eternal City. Our team is committed to bringing you the best in Rome tours. That's why we rank in the top 2% of tour agencies in Rome! Contact us today and get ready to explore the best of Rome with an expert licensed guide!
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