Piazza Navona: From Ancient Arena to Baroque Masterpiece

Obelisk Piazza Navona
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Wonders of Rome Walking Tour

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Piazza Navona holds pride of place among the monumental squares that adorn Rome’s historic centre. With its ornate Baroque fountains, towering palatial façades, and bustling atmosphere, this elongated piazza serves both as a timeless gathering place and a living reminder of Rome’s layered history. 

Although today it draws crowds for its unique atmosphere, performance artists, and al-fresco restaurants, Piazza Navona’s origins are far older, and much more intriguing.

A Square Built atop a Stadium

By no accident is Piazza Navona characterised by a curious elongated shape. Beneath its cobbles lie the remains of the Stadium of Domitian, commissioned by the emperor Domitian in 86 CE. Known in antiquity as the Circus Agonalis (from the Greek word agones, meaning “games”), the stadium was used for athletic competitions and public spectacles, seating up to 30,000 spectators.

Unlike the Colosseum, which hosted gladiatorial combats and animal hunts (venationes), Domitian’s arena was dedicated to footraces, wrestling, and other Greek-style athletic contests. 

For a time, it was even the only permanent venue of its kind in the city. And although the arena eventually fell into disrepair following the collapse of the Western Roman Empire, its footprint endured. During the Middle Ages, new buildings rose over the ruins, often recycling ancient materials and using their rubble as foundations. The arena’s open field remained intact, evolving into a market square—and eventually the Piazza Navona we know today.

ℹ️ You can still visit parts of the Stadium of Domitian today. Purchase your tickets here.

Piazza Navona in the Baroque Era

Piazza Navona gained much of its current splendour in the 17th century, during the Baroque transformation of Rome under the papal patronage of Pope Innocent X. A member of the powerful Pamphilj family, Innocent chose the square as the site of a new family palace, Palazzo Pamphilj, and oversaw the construction of monumental works that still dominate the piazza today.

The square became a theatre of artistic rivalry, particularly between the great architects Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Francesco Borromini, whose distinct styles continue to define the space.

At Pope Innocent’s behest, Piazza Navona was repaved, lined with elegant façades, and given three spectacular fountains that remain its visual highlights.

The Fountains of Piazza Navona

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers)

The centrepiece of the piazza is Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, unveiled in 1651. Commissioned by Innocent X to reflect the Church’s global influence, the fountain depicts personifications of the four major rivers of the known continents:

  • The Nile (Africa) – His veiled head symbolises the then-unknown source of the river.
  • The Ganges (Asia) – Shown holding an oar, referencing its navigability.
  • The Danube (Europe) – Represented as robust and flowing, touching the papal coat of arms.
  • The Río de la Plata (Americas) – Sat upon coins and surrounded by startled animals, symbolising the wealth and exoticism promised by the New World.

At the fountain’s summit stands a towering Egyptian obelisk, brought from the Circus of Maxentius on the Appian Way and inscribed with a dedication to Domitian, tying together the square’s ancient and Baroque identities.

Fountain of the Moor

Located at the southern end of the piazza, the Fountain of the Moor (Fontana del Moro) was originally designed by Giacomo della Porta in 1575. Its central figure, the “Moor” wrestling a dolphin, was added by Bernini decades later. 

Surrounding the central sculpture are four Tritons, all emerging from a seashell-shaped basin.

Fountain of Neptune

At the opposite end, the Fountain of Neptune (Fontana del Nettuno) was also designed by della Porta in 1574 but remained without statuary for over 300 years. In 1878, sculptors Antonio della Bitta and Gregorio Zappalà added Neptune in mid-battle with a sea monster, surrounded by sea nymphs and cherubs. It was part of an effort to balance the composition of the square and mirror the dynamic energy of its southern counterpart.

Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone

Towering behind Bernini’s central Fountain of the Four Rivers is the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, one of Borromini’s architectural masterpieces. Dating from 1652, the church marks the spot where the early Christian martyr Saint Agnes is believed to have died during the persecution of Christians in the third century.

Its Baroque dome and curved façade were carefully designed to complement the space and respond to Bernini’s dramatic fountain, whether in harmony or rivalry, depending on which historical account you believe. Inside, the church houses stunning frescoes, marble chapels, and the somewhat sinister preserved skull of Saint Agnes herself (looking admittedly rather worse for wear).

From Flooded Piazza to Festival Space

As well as hosting markets, theatrical events, and ad hoc public spectacles, Piazza Navona was once the site of a more unusual weekend tradition: summer flooding. 

From the 1600s to the 1800s, the drains of the square were intentionally blocked on hot days to allow water from the fountains to pool into the square’s centre. Roman nobles would arrive in carriages or boats to parade through the water, ostensibly offering a cooling spectacle for the local public while presumably deriving a great deal of satisfaction from essentially splashing peasants.

Those visiting Rome in summer may be disappointed to learn that this tradition has not survived. During winter, however, Piazza Navona hosts Rome’s most famous Christmas market, featuring artisan stalls, street performers, and a festive carousel throughout December and early January.

What to do around Piazza Navona

There are three main attractions in the vicinity of Piazza Navona: the Stadium of DomitianPalazzo Altemps, and Palazzo Braschi. The Stadium of Domitian is worth visiting for those fascinated with Roman emperors and their imperial architecture, but it is not as impressive as the Colosseum or Circus of Maxentius out on the Appian Way, so don’t feel you’re missing out if you skip it.

The fifteenth-century Palazzo Altemps houses a remarkable collection of Roman sculpture and funerary monuments. Anyone passionate about antiquity should make a point of visiting the Boncompagni Ludovisi Collection in particular, and its incredibly detailed tomb reliefs. Palazzo Altemps is open from Tuesday to Sunday (9:30 am to 7 pm) and

Palazzo Braschi is home to the Museum of Rome, with temporary exhibits on the city’s artistic and civic history. Make sure to consult the website or information desk to see what’s on before booking.

Nearby attractions include the Pantheon, Campo de’ Fiori, and the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi (with Caravaggio paintings) — all within a few minutes’ walk.

How to Get to Piazza Navona

If you’re already in the centre, the best way to get to Piazza Navona is by walking. The square is just a five-minute walk from the Pantheon or Campo de’ Fiori, a 15-minute walk from the Trevi Fountain or Vatican, and a 20-minute walk from the Spanish Steps.

If you’d rather take public transport, the most convenient way to get here is by bus. Several buses stop at Corso Rinascimento or Largo di Torre Argentina, just around the corner from Piazza Navona. If you’re taking the metro, the nearest stop is Spagna (Line A), a 15–20 minute walk from Piazza Navona.

If you’d rather take public transport, the most convenient way to get here is by bus. Several buses stop at Corso Rinascimento or Largo di Torre Argentina, just around the corner from Piazza Navona. If you’re taking the metro, the nearest stop is Spagna (Line A), a 15–20 minute walk from Piazza Navona.

Explore Piazza Navona with an Expert Guide

Piazza Navona is one of Rome’s most atmospheric squares. But to truly understand the stories behind its statues, fountains, and rivalries, there’s nothing like seeing it with an expert guide.

Our Rome walking tours bring Rome’s must-see attractions to life with local insight and gripping historical anecdotes. Explore Piazza Navona by day, or see it illuminated at night by joining us on the following tours:

Book today and discover why Piazza Navona has captivated Romans and travellers for nearly two thousand years.

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Alexander Meddings
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Alexander Meddings is a professional copywriter and postgraduate in Roman history from the University of Oxford. After graduating with his MPhil, he moved to Florence and then Rome to carry out his research on the ground and pursue his passion at the source. He now works in travel, as a writer and content consultant, and in education as a university lecturer and translator.
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