
Literally meaning cheese and pepper, cacio e pepe is one of the oldest pasta dishes in Rome's region of Lazio. It's a very cheap dish to make, using just two ingredients: pecorino romano and black pepper. But while it may seem simple, it's the most difficult Roman pasta dish to get right as the luxurious creamy cheese sauce is just a mix of cheese and pasta water.
The rewards are there for anyone who masters it, as they can expect a taste explosion of silky, creamy, cheesiness with a kick of pepper at the end.
Tradition says that the shepherds prepared this dish out of the few dry ingredients that they had to hand as they tended their sheep.
Before the mid-20th century, when Italy was a country of farmers and shepherds, shepherds had to move the cattle seasonally. It was a phenomenon typical of central Italy, due to the geographical makeup of the country: long flat coasts separated by the Apennine mountains.
Shepherds moved their flocks between higher pastures in summer and lower valleys in winter to feed. A regular migration of men, oxen and sheep, cheered by the sound of bells around the animals’ necks and the barking of dogs that gathered the herds.
Goats on the Appian Way, with bells tied around them
The diet of this pastoral society was the dairy products of their flocks and herds (milk, butter, yogurt and cheese) and the lamb that they tended. The most suitable animals to face the Apennine trails were sheep. Shepherds milked their flock and as they moved along the ridges of hills and mountains they noticed that the heat made the milk acid, it ‘curdled’.
This curdled milk or curds as we call them in English was the ‘discovery’ of the first cheese and following due processing, Pecorino was created. It became the first and original seasoning for bread and later a crude pasta made from flour and water.
Pecorino Romano DOP (denominazione di origine protetta) is the oldest and best known of the Italian pecorino cheeses. Dating back to the time of the Roman Republic, whose legionaries enjoyed a daily cheese ration, by 227 BCE this strong, salty cheese spread to Sardinia, where identical environmental and breeding conditions existed.
Sardinia still produces Pecorino Sardo today, it has a slightly different flavour than the Roman one. Pecorino Romano is made using lamb rennet and is aged five months to serve at the table and at least eight months if you want to use it grated as a pasta dressing.
Pecarino Romano Cheese
Cacio e Pepe is hard to make without the right cheese. If you can get a piece of whole pecorino and grate it yourself, that's best. The pecorino should not be too aged. If it's too dry, the creamy cheese sauce is harder to achieve. Unfortunately, Parmigiano or grana padano is not ideal, as you need the cheese to blend to the perfect consistency. You could try a finely grated extra mature cheddar.
This dish is all about temperature, timing and mixing well! Here are some tips to get it just right!!
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